What's a Fade Haircut
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Will Baker
The fade haircut is one of the most versatile cuts in modern barbering. It’s clean, sharp, and adaptable; a fade gradually transitions from shorter hair on the sides and back into longer hair above. Although people debate the exact origin of the fade, modern clipper work made the style possible.
Today, fades are worn across different hair types, styles, and genders. But even though the fade is common, many clients still struggle to explain exactly what they want in the chair.
At Tenet & Taper, we break down what a fade haircut is, the most popular types of fades, and how to tell your barber what you want before the first guard touches your head.
The Fade Haircut
The fade hairstyle has the hair longer on top and gradually gets shorter on the back and sides of the head to the nape area. But to create a fade, the barber must fully blend the hair together and take out any lines that were created, connecting the hair throughout the entire hairstyle.
However, this is just a simplified definition; a fade has many variations such as, but not limited to:
- Low fade: starts lower on the sides, usually around the lower temple or just above the ear, and stays lower around the nape before blending into longer hair above.
- Mid fade: starts around the middle of the sides, often near the temple area, and blends through the middle of the head toward the nape.
- High fade: starts higher on the sides and removes more weight near the temples before blending into the longer hair above, often near the parietal ridge.
- Taper fade: this hairstyle is a hybrid between the taper and fade haircut. A taper fade is usually more subtle and concentrated around the sideburns, temples, and nape rather than a full fade up the sides.
- Drop fade: this hairstyle can be done with a low, mid, or high fade. The barber adjusts the fade height on the side of the head based on the client’s request, and then will drop the fade on the back of the head.
- Skin fade: a fade that blends the hair down to the skin. A skin fade can be low, mid, or high, depending on where the shortest section begins and how high the blend travels.
The fade haircut can accommodate the length you prefer, which is why it’s such a popular hairstyle. Whether you want skin on a high fade or a #2 guard on a low fade, the barber can achieve it to your liking.
To gain a better visualization, see the image below. While not a full representation of all the fades you can ask for–because honestly, we would be here all day–it shows the most popular cuts that most, if not all, barbers should be able to do. If they can’t, you may need a new barber.
How to pick a Fade Haircut
The fade haircut is a versatile look and can look great on anyone; certain styles are better for specific head shapes, profiles, and, of course, the talent and skill level of the barber. Inevitably, you may have to do some trial and error; but before you take the plunge, here are the steps you can take to better narrow down the different fade haircuts so you can limit any bad hair days.
Determine your head shape
Picking the right fade haircut greatly depends on your head shape, and identifying your head shape will help you guide the type of fade haircut that is right for you. Again, this is a general guide. Ensuring that the fade haircut is right for you will depend on the quality of the barber and your preference.
For instance, if you have a:
- Round head shape: you may want to add height and reduce the round appearance, creating a more oval shape. The best fade haircut is the high or mid fade.
- Square head shape: for those with a square head shape, and want to achieve an oval look, you’ll want to soften your features by rounding your hair. The best fade haircuts are the low, taper, and drop fade. However, if you want to enhance the square look, a skin or high fade will do the trick.
- Oval head shape: oval shapes are often considered versatile because they can work with a wide range of haircut styles. The best fade haircuts are the low fade or the taper fade. Going any higher risks throwing off the proportions of your hair, which can either elongate your head shape or give the light bulb hairstyle.
- Oblong: with this head shape, you’ll want to round your head and balance its length at the same time. The best fades for this head shape are the low fade, taper fade, and no higher than the mid fade.
- Diamond head shape: you’ll want to balance your head shape entirely by going with a low fade or taper fade, while avoiding mid and high fades.
- Triangle head shape: a mid fade, taper fade, or a low fade is best for this head shape as you’ll want to balance the top of your head and add more weight to the bottom portion. Avoid skin fades and high fades, as this will make the top of your head disproportionate.
For a visual representation of the different head shapes, see the image below. However, you will also need to take into consideration your profile.
Determine your head profile
You should not ignore the profile of your head, which is the side view, when choosing the type of fade that fits you best. Keep in mind you want a balanced appearance when choosing a fade haircut.
If you have a:
- Straight profile: where your features such as the chin, lips, nose, eyebrows, and forehead are somewhat vertically aligned, then you have a straight profile. Generally, a high fade and skin fades are best for this type of profile.
- Concave profile: the forehead and chin may appear more prominent while the middle of the face appears more recessed. A mid fade or drop fade can help create balance, depending on the haircut and styling.
- Convex profile: the middle of the face, including the nose and mouth area, may project forward while the forehead and chin appear more recessed. A taper fade or drop fade can help keep the overall shape balanced.
For a visual representation see the image below. However, when determining your head type, you will need to still experiment which fade haircut best fits your head and style.
Hair Maintenance and Styling
Generally speaking, fades are a low-maintenance cut, but they still require some basic care of your hair, not only on the outside but on the inside. For instance, drinking plenty of water, getting good sleep, and eating a balanced diet. For the outside of your hair, you’re going to want to keep it clean by shampooing and conditioning your hair, while keeping it hydrated and protected with hair oil like coconut or argan oil.
The fade haircut goes with many hairstyles, but of course, depending on the length of your hair, you can choose from several styles, such as, but not limited to:
- Buzz cut
- Ivy league
- French crop
- Comb over
- Pompadour
- Slick back
How to Ask for a Fade Haircut
All barbers everywhere ought to know what a fade haircut is, yet the terminology between professionals and consumers frequently gets mixed up. Clients will often ask for one thing and get another, and vice versa; barbers mix up client wants and needs all the time. However, following these steps when asking for a fade should make the process go smoothly. First, you need to tell your barber that you would like a fade on the sides and back of your head.
Then you need to tell them exactly how high you want the fade to go. Then you should proceed by telling them how short you would like to go. Typically, barbers go by the guards they use.
For instance a:
- 0 guard: is 1/16 of an inch, which is very short, nearly skin
- 1 guard: is 1/8 of an inch, and leaves a short amount of stubble
- 2 guard: is 1/4 of an inch, which is the most popular choice on the side
- 3 guard: is 3/8 of an inch and leaves a moderate amount of hair.
You must find which number length your hair and head is best cut at. Again, this will require trial and error. The best rule of thumb is to go longer first and then cut down to meet your needs and expectations. For example, if you are debating between a 2 or a 1, go with the two first and then see how you like it. You can always cut more off; you just can’t put it back on.
Once you have the type of hair cut you want and the desired length, you will need to tell the barber how you intend to style the top. Do you want to comb it over to the sides, or slick it back, or do you want to cut it all off with a buzz cut? The choice is yours to make. Find out what hairstyle you would like to wear, and tell your barber. They should be able to cut it to your liking.
The Takeaway
There are many different types of fades someone can get, including a high fade, mid fade, low fade, skin fade, drop fade, and taper fade. Each fade gives a different look depending on where the fade starts and how much contrast you want on the sides. Whether you want something clean, sharp, subtle, or more noticeable, knowing the difference can help you choose the fade that best fits your style.